Monday 12 May 2014

Critical Context 2!


My soul purpose in life ever since first feeling that satisfying shutter release from my very first DSLR camera, I knew that I had to create images with an impact. Photographs that meant something and made people feel the photograph not just look at it, I have been seeing pictures all my life as they are everywhere, all around us and they stick with us, well, some of them do. Some images really speak to you while others simply get lost inside our brains with all the other useless stuff we never need to relocate again. My goal in life is make my images stick in people’s brains like a post it note so that they always remember and can always re access it to enjoy again and again.
Since attending University I have noticed the difference in each type of photographers, Documentary, fashion, dynamic, photographic arts, etc. and each category has a completely different feel to the others. My biggest observation is that fashion may seem very much alive to the world right now but to me, it’s actually quite the opposite, dead. I look through fashion images day after day and notice no matter how different the photographs may be the majority of them have the same thing in common which is, the eyes. The eyes of every single model are blank, no emotion no feeling and no story. This hit me with the most horrible feeling of dread as I knew that I must never produce such images with such lack of emotion and feeling and soul. Then I look at images that are documentary and dynamic, all of them have a story, a tale to tell and feeling that is given for free when looking upon thus image. This is what I want to create within fashion. I want to be the person who combines fashion and documentary and create a complete and obvious fashion image with the feeling and story of documentary. Now there are obviously people who have already mastered this as I am not stating that ALL fashion images are dead and lifeless, just a wide range of them. In the essay I wanted to expose the observation that I have made and to show people the different types of photography and what effect it has on the consumer. A picture is an identity whether that is for the photographer or for the model or the brand. A photograph is really nothing if it hasn’t got any emotion in it anywhere, yes it might bring customers to your brand, or followers to your twitter page but it won’t make a truly strong impact on a true consumer such as a photographer or an artist who seek emotion, feeling and passion in everything possible.

Thomas Ruff created a beautiful series of headshots in a book called, ‘Thomas Ruff – Centre National de la Photographie’, he placed his model against plain backdrops, sometimes a simple off white colour and sometimes bright colours like seen here.
This project by Ruff stood out to me and I found that I was drawn to the warm skin tones, the clean even lighting across the models faces but most of all I was intrigued by the emotionless stare they all wore. Each photograph was emotionless and all sported a blank stare. Not one glimmer of feelings or thought can be found in any of these models’ eyes throughout the whole series of images.

This interested me and I have always noticed it subconsciously whilst viewing the majority of fashion images. Fashion is such a forced feeling and is blank behind the images. No meaning, no story and no emotion is actually within the models no matter how hard they try to portray the perfect acting skills to meet their photographers needs that day. At the end of the day they are still being told what to do.
 As beautiful as this image is by the famous Richard Avedon, titled ‘Darkness and Light’, again...the fashion industry has published image after image like these with beautiful first glance material but when you really look deeper into it and into the models eyes, there is nothing to be found, no true meaning to the image and thus we have, the blank stare of fashion.
This image is beautiful, gorgeous soft lighting with mysterious deep shadows, the eyes are glistening with catch-lights but the soul meaning behind them is dead. There is no story being told here because it is a strong portrait that has nothing going on around the background, no story to tell and no obvious purpose to the image.





This image by Avedon on the other hand is where the blank stare actually works. This image is meant to be confusing and lack rationality and meaning, but it works. It works because, A) It is Richard Avedon and he has built his career up by creating beautiful pieces of art so he is then allowed to do this type of thing because he can back it up with some moral or meaning, and B) It works because the image is confusing yet emotional in other ways, i.e. the honey bees. To me the message of this image could be the thoughts of this man’s head buzzing around like a bunch of bees; it could be the number of times he has been hurt in his lifetime, each pain a sting to the flesh resembling a bee’s sting. It could mean anything and that is acceptable because Avedon has built up his reputation to allow himself to do that. I quote Richard Avedon as he says,
My portraits are more about me than they are about the people I photograph.’ – Richard Avedon
This is the perfect quote to the issue that I am arising. Avedon has built up his identity and fame by putting himself into his work, not literally but conceptually and sometimes subconsciously.

In the fashion industry models are plucked from the ever growing lists of categorisation and placed where they are told best suit them, such as wedding models. Wedding magazines consist of young, beautiful, essentially flawless models with long luscious hair and a bright smiling set of pearly white teeth on every cover of every wedding magazine. This is categorization at its finest. The editors of said magazine will pick out women after women with the slightest of differences to each other all to be positioned, styled, and told exactly how they should be looking. No true feeling, no true brides to be and still an enormous amount of after re-touching still to be done after the final shot is taken of these already flawless women. This is the fashion industry; the images then turn out to be wonderful to look at and yes catch the eye of real brides to be but are subliminally sending out messaged to these brides insisting that they need to look like these perfect Barbie doll like models which are stood posing on the front of their newly purchased magazines when in fact the models staring you in the face from the front page don’t even look like that themselves because of all the re-touching that happens afterwards to make them look like the media standards of the perfect bride/women.
            This type of fashion/commercial photography is a false ego boosting scam to make brides feel like they need to look like the models within therefore the magazines will also place in fitness regimes to follow and diet plans to join and fitness DVD’s to buy all subliminally telling these ladies reading the magazines that they aren’t perfect enough yet, but by buying this magazine they will be able to reach the wedding standard of perfection when in reality it is an endless and hopeless possibility to achieve.
            All of these magazine covers are the same, same pose, same headings, same bright white smiles and again the distant soulless eyes. This model isn’t really about to get married or recently betrothed, she is there to make money and get a few more images in her portfolio. I would love to actually see images of truly happy bride and grooms, real life situations and for them to actually have the glowing smiles and the starry eyes that all young couples have on their wedding day.


Now Cass Bird, Cass was first brought to my attention whilst looking into androgyny in my previous project, ‘Portraiture – Face to Face’. I immediately fell in love with her images because a story was being told in every one of them. Cass actually started out producing dynamic, lifestyle images like these, this one here is taken from the project she completed in 2003 named, ‘I look just like my Daddy’. Cass Bird then started experimenting and pushing her limits in photography and found herself broadening her photography style by accepting photography jobs that weren’t necessarily her starting ‘style’, so her images started out as very personal and documentary, like we see here, to then somehow slowly dipping into advertising, branding and eventually fashion. Here is another image from the series, ‘I look just like my Daddy’.


 
I see here a perfect example of androgyny with a true confusion of gender, feminine mouth, cheekbones and breasts starting to protrude at the sides of her arms just as the image cuts off, short hair, baseball cap and casual plaid T-shirt opened slightly at the top. All of these things are the perfect combination of masculinity and femininity confusing the consumer as to what gender it is they’re looking at whilst at the same time making them think deeper into that as it symbolises the expectation of some parents that maybe wanted a boy and they conceived a girl or vice versa. Cass created these images on top a rooftop in Brooklyn. This image portrays perfect golden sunlight kissing the face of her friend, Macaulay and casting a natural split shadow right down the side of her face.
Referring to what I stated earlier about the blank stare of fashion, these images here are to prove that eye’s and facial expressions with a true look and a real sense of rawness about them speak so much more to the audience than just a blank soulless expression, just a pretty face that has been told how to look. Dynamic photography captures something within the model, the pain, the joy, the love, the anger, whatever it may be that they are feeling, the photographer is there trying to capture that instead of setting up the studio planning every detail rather than just living in the moment with their camera and perfecting it there and then at the scene of the story.
Cass Bird now has this amazing reputation that she has built from these images where now when people who have seen her work before see one of her new images, they instantly say, ‘That’s a Cass Bird’. Cass has photographed celebrities, friends, family, and grown from her documentary lifestyle into this well known artist who can do a bit of everything whether that be, documentary, advertising, fashion etc. This is how I would like to be known, I would like people to know that I am able to tackle anything you throw at me and always know that you’re going to be pleased with it. Cass Bird really inspires me as an artist and photographer to not be afraid to make a statement with photography and that you can always have a little bit of every style included in your photographs. Bird’s identity is created by her learning and growing as a photographer into an artist and exploring all different types of genres of art and photography. Her identity now is fun, quirky, playful yet meaningful, images are always full of meaning with Cass Bird and there is always some hidden message or a story in front of her lens which leads us as consumers to believe that she is very good indeed at making people feel comfortable in front her camera and herself. This influences me to become this opening and finding out everything i can about my client, model, friends etc before and during photographing them just so at least I myself will know the story even if the viewers don’t have time to see.



So far I have discussed the effects from fashion photography and documentary/dynamic photography but there is also passionate decisive photography. Passionate photography is images that have been taken completely at the right time and in the right moment. A photograph that the photographer had no means of catching but was lucky enough to actually capture it and is successful. I am referring to images such as the V-J Day image in times square 1945, right after the war had ended and everyone was out celebrating and kissing, dancing and appreciating life, right when the photographer Alfred Eisenstaedt was out trying to capture the atmosphere of this glorious day, a sailor sweeps this young nurse into his arms, swoons her over and thus the V-J Day kissing image was captured.

I have always found this image truly touching and full of passion and it is known for its spontaneity by the world. This is the perfect example of a truly passionate and romantic image. Alfred had captured this image right in the midst of all the commotion, in the centre of Times Square with the most brilliant of technique. Shot with a Leica llla camera at a low eye level angle and a magnificent contrasting exposure.
This image along with other create impact, so much that they find themselves referenced in movies even today, such as ‘Night at the museum 2’ and ‘Letter’s to Juliet’, where the film opens with the discussion of the spontaneity of this image and whether it really was spontaneous or staged, agreeing that yes it really was captured at a split second moment.
Although the eyes of these two persons cannot be seen, the passion and excitement can be felt transmitted through other things such as atmosphere, body language E.g. the nurse bending her leg slightly in the heat of the kiss, the tightness of the sailors grip on the nurse’s waist and the pressure of the lips to lips kiss that is visible very clearly. The identity then was perceived as when the war ended people would then kiss, hug, dance and celebrate all because of photographs like these. An identity is created by this one decisive image that this must be what everyone was doing at this moment in time back in 1945 to the younger generation that was not there to witness this type of moment first hand.
This essay is concluded by my observation of these images, not just these alone but the stereotypical genre’s in general being a mind opening experience of how we actually look at images and when we are able to truly look at images and decipher the connotations and denotations, we can then take the step further as to deciding whether the image is then ‘real’ or whether it is another blank faced pose with a flat meaning to the overall image. I chose these images specifically because I honestly believe that they are the perfect examples of the statement made, they are clear and recognisable and they are all meaningful to me. I come away from this knowing that my images need to be dynamic and truthful with a challenge of adding the fashion and arts to this as well thus creating high impact images throughout my career. Richard Avedon has been a huge inspiration in my few years of being a photographer along with Cass Bird with her truly exceptional changes in style. In conclusion images can give the photographer, the model, or the brand a specific identity; it’s just their job to make sure it is a positive one to the consumer. This is done by adding life and soul into the image, real life emotion and a story or meaning to back the image up.

Referencing:
Ruff, T. (1997), Thomas Ruff, Centre National de la Photographie
Avedon, R. (2014), ItsLavid, Available at: http://www.itslavida.com/darkness-and-light-richard-avedon/, Accessed on 10/04/2014
Avedon, R. (2014), ItsLavid, Available at: http://www.itslavida.com/darkness-and-light-richard-avedon/, Accessed on 10/04/2014
Unbehaun, E. (2010), Flutterfly Event, Available at: http://flutterflyevents.com/blog/tag/magazines/, Accessed on 20/04/2014
Bird, C. (2004), Brooklyn Mueseum, Available at: https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/opencollection/objects/169585/I_Look_Just_Like_My_Daddy, Accessed on 20/04/2014
Bird, C. (2004), Brooklyn Mueseum, Available at: https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/opencollection/objects/169585/I_Look_Just_Like_My_Daddy, Accessed on 20/04/2014

Eisenstaedt, A. (1945), Life, Available at: http://life.time.com/history/v-j-day-kiss-in-times-square-and-other-celebrations-august-14-1945/#1, Accessed on 01/05/2014